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In moving away, I adopted this view as my own. A few days spent roaming around Baltimore in April — my first visit in 20 years — quickly dispelled my preconceptions. As a teenager I came here for the head shops, feeling envious of those old enough to cross the threshold of the Horse You Came In On Saloon, where legend has it that Edgar Allan Poe took his last drink.
The head shops and dives are still going strong, but now you can also order a craft cocktail at Rye or first-rate seafood at Thames Street Oyster House. Walking down the cockeyed streets, you might spot members of the indie band Beach House, who rehearse in a warehouse nearby. It occupies a colossal storage pier built in , when the city was a prosperous hub of textile and steel mills centered around a busy port. Later, as Baltimore hemorrhaged industry and citizenry, the pier was again reinvented, this time as a community center.
Now, on the same site where cargo was stockpiled during World War I, an infinity pool disappears into the harbor. At least to a point, the answer is yes. When complete, it will be a shimmering world of modular glass towers and manicured green spaces with luxury housing, luxury shops, and a luxurious new Under Armour campus. Plank just completed the first phase, a 22,square-foot distillery for Sagamore Spirit, his line of small-batch rye whiskey. He has been replacing the aging fleet I remember from childhood with slick black ships inspired by s crabbing vessels.
Such ritziness can be disorienting in a city where nearly a quarter of the more than , residents live in poverty. The list of distinguished black Americans who have emerged from this city is long and varied. The legacy of government-sanctioned segregation remains, with whites and blacks living largely in separate realities. Against this backdrop, Port Covington has become a lightning rod. To finance it, Plank received the largest package of tax incentives in Baltimore history. Yet only 10 percent of the apartments are earmarked for affordable housing, raising the question of whether the city is prioritizing well-off newcomers at the expense of its long-term residents.
One night I met up with Whitney Simpkins, a friend of a friend who, with the easygoing hospitality so often on display in this city, offered to show me around the Baltimore she knows. After graduating, she considered leaving, until it hit her: Why? It was recently converted to lofts.
Last year, Cosima, a casually upscale Mediterranean restaurant, opened in its courtyard. She hardly sounded resentful. For every Mill No.
Hampden, the hilly district where Simpkins lives, still looks much as it did in the early s, when it was developed to house mill workers. Recent additions like the French bistro Le Garage, the A parallel phenomenon is playing out less than a mile away in Woodberry, where a decade ago the Woodberry Kitchen brought the farm-to-table movement to Baltimore.
Eating at this hidden treasure feels like attending a dinner party. Barbara mikulski takes her place in the u. This topic has been closed to new posts due to inactivity. It was a joy to get to know you and I want you to know that your kind positive spirit is contagious. Whether you need to ship five arcades for repair, ten jukeboxes for commercial use or one pinball machine for your personal home entertainment in a game room we can accommodate your shipment logistics. Today, the Lovely Lane church on St. Related: What are the most popular tours in Baltimore?
Now it has been joined by neighborhood staples like Birroteca, a craft-beer joint that serves artisanal pizza and small plates to scruffy postgrads and young families. On what looked to be a deserted corner in Remington, a neighborhood that in my day was on the list to avoid, Simpkins took me to W. The owner of both Clavel and W. Harlan is Lane Harlan, a year-old former military brat who stayed in Baltimore after attending the University of Maryland.
Just about everyone I met in town seemed to know her and consider her the embodiment of the sort of opportunity Baltimore offers to young entrepreneurs. Not far from her establishments is R.
House, a 50,square-foot food hall that opened last December in a former auto garage to a blend of excitement and wariness. Do such ventures spell the end of the old neighborhood, or a new beginning? As I sipped a frothy pink cocktail of thyme-infused rum and beet vinegar at R. House one afternoon, I contemplated that question while staring through the plate-glass windows at a telling vista: a block of regal row houses, many still boarded up, at least for now.
What I found most remarkable was what remained in these neighborhoods: history and diversity, stoops and porches long occupied by the same families. Royal Farms is a chain of local convenience stores that are similar to, but better than, 7-Eleven. They are most famous for their deli ordering terminals, which allow you to specify via a touch-screen monitor exactly what you want on a sandwich.
They are also known for their fried chicken, chicken sandwiches, and western fries. In recent years, Baltimore has attracted many world class chefs and is now considered a major destination for impeccably prepared, locally sourced New American cuisine. Baltimore recently passed a smoke-free ordinance, so be aware that all restaurants and bars are completely non-smoking. The two neighborhoods with the largest concentrations of drinking establishments and clubs are Fells Point and Powerplant Live!
Other fine wining or boozing and dining neighborhoods include Canton Square , Mt. Baltimore is also the home of the oldest Irish pub in the United States, Patrick's of Pratt Street, established in Fells Point is the city's most popular district for both eating and drinking, it is located about a 15 min walk from downtown, or a short cab ride.